Bicotene® Complex (now 99% natural)
Epidermal delivery of pro-retinol
Deep skin protection from UV, blue, visible light and IR damage
Prevents the main causes of photoaging
Bicotene® Complex is an ingredient based on the Bicosome® technology: a skin delivery platform providing double encapsulation of actives and target delivery to the desired skin layer. Bicotene® Complex contains beta-carotene as the main active ingredient - a natural protector against free radicals (FR) and is an abundant and effective precursor for Vitamin-A production (pro-retinol).
Beta-carotene on its own is not stable and degrades rapidly upon exposure to, among others UV radiation. The Bicosome® technology is able to stabilize beta-carotene as a result of the double encapsulation. Raman spectroscopy of non-encapsulated beta-carotene and Bicotene® Complex before and after exposure to 2h of UV radiation clearly show the degradation of non-encapsulated beta-carotene, while the beta-carotene in Bicotene Complex is not affected by UV exposure.
Bicotene Complex is able to effectively deliver beta-carotene into the epidermis. Raman microscopy shows an 8 times deeper penetration of beta-carotene with Bicotene Complex compared to a traditional liposome based delivery system.
Sun exposure leads to generation of FR in the skin and the resulting oxidative stress damages cell membranes and DNA. By upregulating MMP-1 enzymes, FR formation further lead to degradation of structural fibers such as collagen. Bicotene® Complex provides deep skin protection against FR formation in all 3 stages of sun exposure: a. before, b. during and c. after.
Electron Paramagnetic Resonance (EPR) measurements on native skin and skin treated with 3% Bicotene Complex show the protective effect of Bicotene Complex against FR formation. Before, during and after exposure to UV/vis and IR radiation Bicotene Complex effectively reduced the level of FR present in the skin.
Bicotene Complex’s ability to protect collagen is demonstrated using SAXS measurements. The SAXS profile of native skin (A) show characteristic collagen peaks that disappear upon exposure to IR radiation (B). Application of 3% Bicotene Complex prior to IR exposure prevents the diminishing of the collagen peaks in the SAXS profile (C), demonstrating Bicotene Complex’s protective properties towards collagen degradation.
Bicotene® Complex’s ability to protect against DNA damage is demonstrated by histone phosphorylation measurements. These studies show a 90% decrease in DNA double strand breaks in skin onto which 1% Bicotene Complex has been applied prior to UV exposure, in comparison to untreated skin.
LDH assay tests on native skin and skin treated with 1% Bicotene Complex prior to UV exposure shows a protective effect against cell membranes damage.
Furthermore, LDH assay tests also show a repairing effect of Bicotene Complex on cell membranes when it is applied onto skin after UV exposure.
Application, uses and benefits
Bicotene® Complex can be used in a variety of products with multiple benefits:
Skin care, sun care, color cosmetics:
The following formulation guidelines will help in successfully using the Bicotone® Complex products in formulations:
Liquid water-based Bicotene® Complex:
Lyophylized Bicotene® Complex:
Dos and Don’ts:
Bicotene® Complex products are globally compliant (including China) for use as cosmetic ingredient
Bicotene® Complex: Aqua, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Lysolecithin, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Phytic acid, Tocopherol (mixed), Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene.
Bicotene® Complex - Lyophylized: Lecithin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Lysolecithin, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium phytate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene, Tocopherol, Aqua
The Bicosome® products are developed and manufactured by Bicosome company (www.bicosome.com). Ultra is the supplier of the Bicosome® products in parts of the US and Canada.